integrated recoil lug in aluminum bedding blockblock

#Integrated recoil lug in aluminum bedding blockblock install
#Integrated recoil lug in aluminum bedding blockblock free

I do not bed in front of the recoil lug on customs, Rem 700, 788's, and 40x's,Unless I am installing a 30-32' Max Heavy Varmint contour or unturned blank, then bed in front of the recoil lug, Rugers I will bed 1 1/2' in front of the recoil lug. Stocks with Al bedding blocks almost always benefit from a skim coat including the recoil lug.

#Integrated recoil lug in aluminum bedding blockblock free

I have played with taping the sides and front, vs bedding the whole recoil lug, can't tell the difference in super accurate rifles, BUT, YOU HAVE TO FREE FLOAT THE BOTTOM OF THE RECOIL LUG Often, you should do one major pour, then follow with a skim cret of master builders Johnson's paste wax or clear shoe polish works well, cheap When I am finished, I wash off the Accra Release with the brake cleaner.easy I use a spray on Brownells accra release, two coats on action and screws Couple of basics that I have learnedĭegrease your actions and screws twice with brake cleaner, three times if you are pissed off at the wife. Over the years, I have heard more BS on this subject it is just sickening.

#Integrated recoil lug in aluminum bedding blockblock install

I install action screws after everything is cleaned up and then torque down. I do bed the lug tight though, barrel free floated. I also have electrical tape on the barrel in the forearm area to help center it in the stock. After all the prep work and putting the bedding goo in the stock, I insert the barreled action with a set of long studs screwed into the action screw holes to help line up the action in the stock and then squish it down into the stock and use about three wraps of electrical tape to hold it in place until it cures. The link above, on 6mmBR site is good info. Float the whole barrel, no glass touching the barrel. You may hear the term skim bedded, this is what you want, you will hardly see any aluminum. You want the action to set in the bedding, not the aluminum block. Don't tighten the screws at all, just use them to align the action in the stock. You should strive for no stress anywhere. Cranking down on the screws will stress the action to whatever the block will stand. Never assume that a aluminum bedding block is straight, or perfectly aligned. Not fill the holes with glass, and push bedding material into the lug area of the action. Action screws should only touch the action and the floor plate, not the stock or bedding block. First a good degreasing with brake cleaner, then a little roughing up, so the bedding compound has something to get a good hold of. If it is bedded correctly it can not or should not bend no matter how much you tighten it. Never tighten a Remington action to 60 inch pounds, as it will bend it! And this isn't just some dreamed up project Than your project, you can pick out of it what you need to do Only rifles having a rear action screw through the tang should Some of the advice you've received here is setting you up forĭisaster if you follow it. It's a real pain to get that out so it can beīedded with something a little better. Results, but after 5-7 years, the stuff softened on me resulting Oh, I just 'snug' the action screws, but again, that's just me.Shelton573,I used Pro-Bed on two different rifles with fantastic

While bedding my 700 OR 25-06 to its Bell and Carlson M40 stock (with integral aluminum bedding block) I inadvertently 'surrounded' the action screws with Acraglas (they were well 'greased', as was the bottom metal) At first I thought 'On s£¡√' but as luck and divine intervention would have it the thing shoots better than I can hold it so I'm leaving it alone, contrary to advice from well respected advice givers. I'd at least bed both sides of the lug and the tang. I've read up on how experts do it and some of them say only to bed behind the recoil lug, while the majority say to do both sides of the recoil lug, the action and rear tang. Doing it that way has worked several times for me, but I suppose someday there will that one time when it doesn't.Īs long as you got the stuff out, I'd bed the whole action, but that's just me. I kinda prefer using the bottom metal and action screws so things all line up when I'm done. Inletting screws would be fine IF the holes aren't terribly over sized like they are in most cases.